It takes 12-15 years, and slate on the roof begins to decay: there are cracks, minor spalling, etc. The roof must be repaired. Previously, it was purified, washed, dried, primed with linseed oil, and then all the cracks were covered in fabric strips, soaked with oil paint. After that, sometimes painted with oil paint. These repairs extended the life of the roof for 2-4 years, after which the repairs had to be repeated. Currently, there are simple and proven way to repair asbestos slate, after which the roof live 8-10 years. To repair the roof will need the following materials: PVA glue, cement, preferably brand "300" and above, dissolved asbestos and water. If no PVA glue, you can use frost-resistant water-based paint marks E-AK-111, E-BA-17, E-VS-17, but somewhat reduced longevity of the roof repaired. If you can not get dissolved asbestos, then the shallow vegetable grater to rub sheet asbestos. Repair mixture is prepared in small batches for 2-3 hours of work. Mixed with 1.2 Fr.hours with 3 of the cement. h. dissolved asbestos and dilute PVA glue, diluted 1: 1 with water (water-based paints with water is not diluted). Repair mixture should have the consistency of sour cream. Obmetayut roof, clearing sections brought the land, covered with lichen, etc. Then wash the roof from the water hose. Especially thoroughly washed (using a hard brush) sites with cracks. After drying, the roof primed PVA glue diluted with water (1 degree. H. glue, 3 on. Hours of water). In fact, repair is to repaint places with cracks in two passes so that a layer of "paint" a minimum thickness of 2 mm. When repairing a roof is convenient to use an improved brush. A piece of rubber hose is fitted on a long handle and it (angle) is inserted into the brush. Repairs carried out in cloudy weather. Galvanized steel parts is well known that the galvanized steel components and mounting material (screws, bolts, etc.) long not rust. Wooden parts, sealed galvanized screws, less destroyed. On sale are very rare fixing materials, coated with zinc, cadmium, etc. At home, if there is a muffle furnace or a furnace, it is easy to absorb zinc, small parts, and mounting materials. Hot-dip galvanizing, with which you can get at things on a thick steel and zinc resistant film, the following way. In a suitable steel cans are placed details that should be covered with zinc, and covered with a mixture of working. It consists of 75% (by mass) of zinc powder and 25% melkoproseyannogo clean sand. Steel parts such as screws, thoroughly degreasing with acetone or gasoline B-70. Then they put on 1, 0-1, 5 min. in sulfuric (50 g / l) or salt (40 g / l) acid. Rinsed with water and dried. Screws and a working mixture for zinc put in the ratio 1: 1 by mass, carefully mixed. Then the bank, closed the lid, put in a muffle furnace or a furnace and heated to a temperature of 450 - 500 ° C. At this temperature, can withstand up to 10 hours in galvanizing relatively large parts (hinges, latches, etc.) do so. At the bottom of the banks is put a layer of the working mixture of 4-5 mm thick, laid on her details and the top is put another layer of the mixture. Then close the jar lid and heated in a furnace (furnace). Protection of wood from decay and destruction of wood in alternating steps of heat, cold and humidity often rots. The most dangerous cause rot Dry rot, which appear only in damp unventilated places. Therefore, the wood must be stored, and preventing the possibility of airing it wet. Getting to combat fungi, especially, need to scrape or cut the infected wood, and then burn it. At the end of the processing tool disinfected. Only dried timber, proceeds to antiseptirovaniyu. Depending on the degree of contamination of mushrooms wood airs year-round, or rather warm season. No less dangerous beetles drevoedy or grinders which infest dry wood - in the walls, beams, boards, floors, furniture, etc. To protect the "wood from decay and destruction as preventive measures are widely used antiseptics, with appropriate toxicity . Before you can use an antiseptic, to get acquainted with its properties: The drug should not destroy the wood and makes it difficult to finish, cause corrosion of metal, have an unpleasant odor. Before applying an antiseptic should be tightly fastened to wear a dressing gown, a better suit, rubber apron and rubber gloves, goggles with a respirator. Instead of a respirator, you can use pre-moistened gauze bandage with a layer of wool. from the premises should temporarily remove the food, remove people, birds and animals. After working face, hands, and preferably the entire body is recommended to wash with warm water and soap. Preservatives are dissolved in water or oil. soluble virtually no odor and are widely used in private housing. The wood is treated with preservatives using a brush or sprayer. The most common preservatives: kremneftoristy and ammonium fluoride, ammonium kremneftoristy and kremneftoristy sodium. sodium fluoride - a white powder, has no odor. The wood does not stain, does not decrease the strength, corrosive metal (rust). Solubility in water with a temperature of 20 ° N - 3, 7%, 80 ° N - 4, 6%. Apply solutions 3.4% concentration . Antiseptiruyut elements of the house, as well as materials and products (mostly plates) from the chip, cane, wood chips and peat. Kremneftoristy sodium - white or light gray powder with a yellowish tinge. Solubility in water with a temperature of 20 ° C - to 0, 7 % 80 ° C - up to 1, 8%. It should be used with soda ash, sodium fluoride or sodium silicate. are used for such purposes as sodium fluoride. These two drugs should not be used in a mixture of lime, chalk, plaster and cement as they lose their antiseptic properties. Kremneftoristy ammonium - white powder, odorless. The wood does not stain, does not reduce its strength, giving it a small fire. Toxicity higher than sodium fluoride. Soluble in water with a temperature of 25 ° N - 18, 5%, 75 ° C - 32, 5%. is usually applied a solution of 8% concentration. The lack of antiseptic - easily washed off with water. antiseptiruyut Wood three times with intervals of 2-3 hours, but you can over a longer time. When This wood is impregnated to a depth of 1-2 mm, there are several antiseptics against insects. Metrifonate is mixed with water in any ratio. It is sharp, but the odor disappears quickly. It is better to apply the solution of 10% concentration a good remedy against drevoedov beetles or borers. Hlorodan soluble in organic solvents and insoluble in water. It has a slight odor. Available in the form Douste and 65% aqueous concentrate with the oil and emulsifier. concentrate is diluted with water to desired concentration. To have died larvae and beetles, with the advent of warm weather surface structures are well recommended impregnated with an antiseptic, causing him spray or brush. This operation is preferably repeated three or four times at intervals of 2 weeks. During the year of the holes a thin wire can remove wood dust and inject them antiseptic. Materials for bonding wood to wood bonding adhesives used all sorts of - glyuteinovye, casein, synthetics and epoxy. The concentration of the glue depends on the content in the dry matter, expressed as a percentage of the weight of the solution. Glyuteinovye adhesives (mezdrovy and bone) - it glues of animal origin. Skin Glue made from scrapings - the subcutaneous layer of animal skins, as well as scrap and waste of raw hides, bone glue - from fat-free and cleared of impurities bones, hoofs and horns. Glyuteinovye adhesives often produce dry bars with 150 - 200, a width of 80-100, the thickness of 10-15 mm, and in the form of grains or scales (much more convenient when cooking - faster swelling). Bone glue is produced and studneobraznom form galertoy. In this adhesive must add preservatives. galerty easily prepared from the adhesive. Color of tile adhesives, depending on the composition of the raw materials - from light yellow to dark brown. adhesive quality - glassy, bright, and when the break forms a sharp edge. glues are made of four grades: high, first, second and third. Glyuteinovye adhesives should be kept in a dry ventilated with an air temperature not above 15 ° C . Galertu long store is not recommended. A small amount of glue can be refrigerated. Casein glues the first and second grades are made from casein (fat-free cottage cheese), slaked lime, sodium fluoride, copper sulfate, and kerosene. Clay produce two brands: "Extra" (In -107) and "On" (ordinary). The adhesive stamps "On" Copper sulfate does not impose, casein is used in Class II. Clay is a homogeneous mass of yellowish-white. Store the glue in the dry, ventilated with an air temperature not above 30 ° C, otherwise it loses its properties. After 5 months of storage from the date of issue, the adhesive should check the strength of adhesion. Synthetic adhesives (carbamid, melamine-mochevinoformaldegidnye etc.) gribostoyki and waterproof, have great strength of adhesion. It produces adhesives firm , pasty, liquid, powder. Before using the adhesive should be familiar with instructions for its preparation and methods of bonding. Epoxy adhesive consists of a polymer, solvent (ethanol mixed with acetone) and plasticizer (dibutyl phthalate). This adhesive is universal - has high strength bonding without high pressure Mounting, but requires careful preparation of adherend surfaces. When the air temperature 20 ° C cures for 24 hours at 60 ° C - 4 hours, and at 120 ° C - 2 h. The preparation of wood surface for subsequent finishing the process of preparing a wood surface coating and polishing perform the following steps: cleaning, polishing, removing pile, whitening and obessmolivanie. From the skillful execution of these operations depends on finishing the product. Stripping carry a sprig, a knife which is carefully sharpened and rule on the touchstone; than a sharp knife, the better. Gorbatikov put on the blade (iron) at a distance of 0, 5 mm, max. After cleaning the surface of wood should be flat and smooth. If, however, it will be at some defects (knots, resin stand out), then the correct formulation of their inserts, color and texture does not differ from the repaired wood. fixed the defective places, polished wood-grained sandpaper along the layers to completely remove traces of the tool. No matter how well a polished surface on it still remains a nap - the smallest fibers. During the coating or polishing pile up and spoils the transparent cover lacquer or politurnoy film. Usually nap smoothed and heavily inserted into the timber. To raise it, it should first moisten the surface of the wood, rubbing a damp or wet rag. Having carefully drying raised hairs removed fine-grained sandpaper, or better cycle . For the complete removal of the pile this operation is repeated two or three times. To make the pile great hardness and ensure its full lifting and removal, the water is added a little wood glue. Pile, dried, slightly raised, it becomes more rigid and easier to remove. After careful polishing obmetayut surface with a brush, and the part or product is ready for subsequent finishing: dyeing, varnishing or polishing. timber having colored spots on the surface, if necessary, bleach. lends itself to be bleached only the lightest species - maple, aspen, basswood, silver poplar. There are several different composition bleachers. whitens Good 15% aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide. This composition wets the surface of wood and left for several days, after which it becomes completely white and does not require rinsing. Rapid whitening can be performed 6-10% solution of oxalic acid. To do this, take 1 liter of hot water, adding 60-100 g of oxalic acid, all thoroughly stirred. The wood is covered 2.3 times. After the bleaching of wood surface thoroughly washed with hot water. Obessmolivanie timber perform swab moistened with acetone, gasoline, turpentine or soda solution. Recipes solvent are listed below. After obessmolivaniya wood should be thoroughly dried and then you can proceed to further processing. Staining wooden parts of transparent paint to simulate wood using various dyes, make them the solutions that are easy to penetrate into the wood. To prepare the dye solutions used water, reducing soda ash (about 0 1%) or ammonia (5%). For a more uniform staining wood surfaces should first be moistened with water through the swab or cloth. Prepared coloring solution is applied to the surface of wood along the grain only with a brush, spray, well-soaked sponge, clean cotton cloth. After dyeing the surface of wood rubbed with a clean cloth, removing grease stains. Staining solution to penetrate more deeply into the pores of the wood, he warmed to 50-60 ° C. Painted items should be dried at least 1, 5-3 hours at a temperature not lower than - 18 ° C, but can be for a longer time to complete drying. The practice of dyeing of wood, many conventional dyes are used, intended for dyeing cotton fabrics and furs. Fortress of the solution depends on the intensity of staining. It is better to use a stain . The same mordant dyes different types of wood are not the same, because they have different contents of certain chemicals and a different structure. For example, one type of wood has more tannin, and another - less. If the stain, add a solution of potassium dichromate, and cover it maple, pine, spruce, beech, linden, they become a beautiful yellow color, but if the same solution to stain the oak, it turns a dark brown color due to tannin content in it, which interacts with potassium dichromate. Color: wood after stained also depends on the age of the tree, its degree of humidity of the place of its growth. Resinous place the tree absorb stains, so materials from softwood (pine, spruce, fir) are becoming uneven coloration. If the items are made of softwood, it should be before pickling with their surface to remove the resin. This surface is lubricated with a solution of 60 g of soda ash and 50 g of potassium carbonate in 1 liter of hot water. After the treatment is rinsed with clean water. Obessmolit timber can be 4-5% solution of caustic soda (40-50 g ash to 1 liter of soft water). You can use a solution of acetone (250 g of acetone in 750 ml of distilled water). obessmolivaniya solution to be applied several times, 20-30 minutes. wiped with a cotton cloth. Then the surface is rinsed with water, heated to a temperature of 40-50 ° C. The powdered stain solvent, according to the instructions on its packaging, in distilled water or other solvents. If the solution will turn cloudy, strain it through a filter paper or heavy cloth. It is best absorbed 3% solution (3 g stain in 100 ml of water ). In some stain after prolonged storage precipitate, so before use, they should be slightly warm. Before pickling timber abrade fine sandpaper and thoroughly clean of dust and other contaminants. stains from wood glue soak in warm water and fat - prepare gasoline. Holes from the nails and fill small cracks with putty. Mordant apply in the warm condition, that it is better absorbed. Use a brush or sponge, evenly staining along the surface of the wood fibers. If the plane is vertical, apply the stain from the bottom up. Please note that the wood stain colors, not protects it from wear, aging or the effects of atmospheric phenomena. Therefore, after thorough drying is recommended that the surface varnish colorless lacquer. Following the drying of the first layer of varnish, and before applying the second surface lightly sanded. The brown stain from the green nuts. husk, place in a humid place to ensure that it beginning to rot and black. After this, boil it in soft water. The resulting strain broth and heat until thick.
Before use, the dense liquid can be diluted. Dry brown stain from the green nuts. Slightly rotten green nutshell, dry in shade and grind into a powder, which store in tightly sealed container in a dark place. Before use, boil the powder in water, strain broth and add to it a little soda or potassium carbonate. If baking dish, walnut stained wood after drying, moisten a solution of 10 g of potassium dichromate and 50 mg of boiled water, it acquires a reddish color. If instead of potassium dichromate to apply a dilute solution of acetic acid or a solution of ferrous sulfate, the surface acquires a grayish hue. The brown stain of potassium permanganate. 50 g of potassium permanganate dissolved in 1 liter of warm water. Mordant prepared immediately before use, as well as during storage, it changes its properties. This solution is apply for a wooden plane with a brush or a brush from bast or cotton cloth (from the brush bristles are damaged). If the stained surface remains bright, fumed again, and if it became very dark, it can lighten the diluted hydrochloric acid (10 ml hydrochloric acid per 200 ml of water). After the hydrochloric acid wash the surface with water. Order of potassium permanganate is not formed spots after applying stain for 15 minutes, the surface should be wiped with a damp sponge. This stain is resistant to light and air, but less strongly to acids. It's her property is used for printing on acid-stained surfaces. Stain of soda ash and tannin. The surface of the soak solution of sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate (75 g of soda ash, or 35 g of potassium carbonate in 1 liter of water). After drying, soak it a solution of tannin (50 g of tannin per 1 liter of water). Color seen in 30-60 min. This stain is best suited for oak. Stain of ferrous sulfate. The surface of the soak solution of ferrous sulfate (200 g ferrous sulfate to 1 liter of water). After drying, moisten a solution of tannin (25 g of tannin per 1 liter of water). Color stains from dark brown to brown seen in 30-60 min. Pickling makes milk of lime. If oak or other timber, containing a large amount of tannin, moisten the milk of lime (slaked lime), then after drying manifest light brown color. Walnut wood is greenish-brown. Staining ammonia solution. If you moisten the 12%-s ammonia solution oak, walnut or other timber, containing a large amount of tannin, they are stained in the gray-brown color. Transparent surface finishing of wooden parts three most common ways to clear surface finishing of wood: waxing, varnishing and polishing. Any of them leads to the formation of fine transparent film, which reveals the texture of wood and protects it from destruction and pollution. Consider the last two ways: before varnishing and polishing the surface of wood to be processed with a special paste and primers in order to fill the tiny pores that reduce the quality of the transparent cover. Most are simple in composition and method of making wax-paste the following (parts are given in percentages): 1. Beeswax - 40, turpentine - 60. 2. Paraffin - 60, gasoline - 40. 3. Paraffin - 55, rosin - 5, petrol - 40. 4. Wax - 30, stearin-10, soap - 10, turpentine - 40, rosin - 1 0. The order of cooking pastes all the recipes is the same: in the enamel or tin pan in water bath melt resin, then mix it with melted wax (wax, paraffin), remove from heat and, stirring, pour in a thin stream of gasoline or turpentine. The surface is covered ostyvshim composition, using a brush with short stiff bristle brush or pad made of cotton fabric (available from gauze or burlap on the condition that they will not keep the nap on the surface). Surfaces coated with mastic, dried for several hours at a room temperature 18 - 20 ° C, so that sealant is well penetrated into the pores of wood and strengthened. After that it smooths swab, removing the excess and giving the surface a little gloss. Wipe the surface only along the fibers of wood. Then the product is dried until complete evaporation of the solvent, ie the disappearance of the smell of turpentine or gasoline. Primed surface so more can not handle, only to gain luster rubbed talcum powder. But the wax coating is short-lived, quickly loses its luster dust and moisture. To fix a waxy luster and finish to give greater stability, the product is recommended to cover with liquid alcohol varnish. Blot can and other pastes, but they are difficult to manufacture. Lacquer coating technology - the most common type of decoration. Quality lacquer film depends on the brand chosen varnish application method and number of coatings. Varnishing can do with oil, alcohol or nitrolakami. Oil varnishes are recommended for all types of wood. They form the most stable water-resistant coating with a strong hard glitter, require prolonged drying. Varnish is applied with a brush or swab 1 or 2 times. Alcohol varnishes give elastic film with a soft luster than oil, but less waterproof. The best furniture lacquers are prepared on shellac. They dry for 1-1, 5 hour Nitrolaki give fairly waterproof, with a high gloss film, more solid than alcohol varnishes, and dry for 15-25 minutes. Nitrolaki applied to all species of wood 3-5 times, usually with a brush, better - spray. When varnishing brush superfluous taken varnish and squeeze a thin layer of lacquer is applied along the fibers of wood. As the varnish dries quickly and becomes hard hair brush, brush must be periodically washed in alcohol or other solution. Varnishing also perform any of the tampon, preferably wool, fabric, folded in a ball and wrapped folded in two to three layers of linen cloth (cotton cloth with rubbing on the surface of leaves pile). Tampon for varnishing or polishing prepare the case. Deploying it, and poured on anyone wool or wool or varnish politru. Collapse and holding in his hand, squeezing between the thumb and forefinger or between the index and middle. The degree of saturation of the swab with varnish or lacquer checking tentative strokes on board or plywood, necessarily planed. Smears of lacquer or varnish should be enough fat, but do not leave streaks on the surface. As of the tampon periodically fill with varnish or lacquer. Swab dipped in lacquer can not, because it leaves the surface rough strokes of varying fat content, which adversely affects the quality of coating. To work with alcoholic varnish is recommended to have some tampons. First, one of the tampons make tentative strokes determine the effect of pressure, tampon tied to the surface, make quick movements along the wood fibers so that the edges of smears (lasov) overlap (Fig. 1206). Frosted film is obtained after one - three surfaces, dull-shining - three - six. After each exposure the coating is required: first, 30-40 minutes., Second - 50-60, third-1, 5 pm, the fourth - 2, 5, etc. After applying the first coat of varnish it is well dried and polished surface of a fine-grained sandpaper until until it is completely smooth. Then the surface is cleaned from dust with a clean cloth or dry brush and the second is covered with varnish, slightly diluted with alcohol. Thoroughly dried layer of varnish, sanded it pumice powder with water and kerosene. This work is done by a separate pad or a wooden block, wrapped with a cloth. Surface wipe with a sponge or cloth dampened with water or kerosene. Dry the best possible way, causing the third layer is more liquid varnish. For a deeper gloss lacquer coating polished. Polishing varnish alcohol lacquer coatings perform as follows. Lacquered surface pre-sanded pumice powder. To do this, it initially covered with a thin layer of vegetable or machine oil, sprinkle with powdered pumice from the gauze bags and grind sukonkoy or felt. After thorough grinding of the surface cleaned with a clean dry cloth and start polishing. Swab in polish applied circular strokes. To tampon is not stuck to the surface and easily slid on its side of the labor cause 2-3 drops of vaseline or vegetable oil. The scope or extent of motion smear to be 4-5 times the diameter of a tampon. The tampon is not lowered to the surface, but as is coming to a sliding motion. After processing the entire surface in one direction, without taking swab begin processing in reverse. For each technique is applied to the surface 30-50 lasov - the thinnest layers of varnish, and then dried for 3.5 hours or more and the second cause is the same number of strokes. Dry 6.12 pm and more, on the third polishing, causing the same amount lasov. At 1 m2 require 300-400 g polishes. In the process of polishing must be timely to fill a tampon polish. Varnishing oil varnishes. These varnishes are applied to the surface of 3 - 4 times, mostly with a brush. At the same time on the surface are more fatty layers, which are well spread, especially if heated varnish. Lacquer dries 8-48 h. To accelerate the drying add sikativ. Each subsequent layer is applied after the complete drying of the previous one. Varnishing nitrolakami. Layers of varnish is applied with a brush along the grain fast longitudinal motion in one direction. Covering perform 3-4 times with an exposure of each layer at least 2 hours Brush periodically washed solvent desired brand. Technology polishing. Polishing products are usually made of fine-pored wood with beautiful texture - walnut, mahogany, Karelian birch, rosewood, pear, maple, birch, ash, poplar, apple tree. Polishing furniture polish - it is a complex, time-consuming process, consisting of several separate operations - priming, polishing, drying alcohol. The work must be performed in a dry, light, warmth and a clean room at a temperature of 18-20 ° C. Polishing is recommended to carry out swab. To facilitate the sliding pad on the polished surface of his working side should be lightly oiled with vegetable, vaseline or transformer oil (a drop or two). Priming perform 12-14% alkaline polish, while sprinkling the surface with powdered pumice. Mingling with varnish, it is evenly distributed over the surface and fills the pores of wood. Powder is better to pour in a nylon stocking. First, it is recommended to walk on the surface swab dipped in lacquer, then sprinkle a layer of powder left, so she stuck to the varnish, and then further coating. First-coating performed without oil. Oil is used after the entire surface will be uniformly dull, and the tampon will begin to adhere to the surface. Finish coating, when the entire surface becomes shiny, smooth, will not be visible then, as well as various defects. In the process of priming the surface causing some 150lasov. After priming the part or product can withstand dry or dried plum room with an air temperature of 18-20 ° C for at least three days (preferably 6-7), then grind fine oiled sandpaper, preferably the former used, as it grinds more cleanly without leaving scratches. Instead of skins you can use pumice powder mixed with water to the thickness of paste, but the work should comply with the new pad. Better to keep grinding along the fibers, slightly pressing on the surface. Well polished product or part is dried for 2 days, collected by the dust is removed with a soft cloth or brush. The first polishing perform 8-10% alkaline-Term polish (100 g of varnish to add a tablespoon of alcohol). Primer surface rubbed with a dry cloth. In the tampon pour polish so that it was uniformly wetted and light pressing on its surface finger polish advocated. To test a swab on a separate sample - it should keep disappearing wet trail polishes. Movement in the first polishing pad is so. They carry out a straight line, and on it - Zigzag. Especially carefully polished edge. Oil is added to the sliding pad only when it begins to stick to the surface. Lightly brush with butter fingertip and leave them on the pads for two or three points (no more than a small drop). From the excess oil polished film becomes cloudy and requires longer drying time. In the first polishing surface causing some 150lasov, that is covered with its intricate layers of varnish are well pulverized. From this it becomes a smooth, slightly shiny, no stripes, spots and unfilled pores. The product is then dried for 12 days at air temperature - 18-20 ° C. If after drying defects, the polishing is repeated. Second polishing performed only on well-drained previous polishing. New tampon filled with polish and make it a zigzag motion with subsequent return of the swab in a loop through the first zig-zags. During this operation is applied to the surface near 150lasov. Oil is added after the deterioration of the sliding pad. Finish the work when the entire surface will remain flat mirror gloss. The product is dried for not less than 6.10 days in the dry, warm, plum room. The surface of the product carefully inspected, cleaned from possible dust with a clean dry soft cloth and proceed to the third polishing. The third polishing perform more liquid - polish. To do this, 100 grams of regular varnish diluted with two tablespoons of alcohol or solvent, in which it is cooked. Polishing perform at a faster rate and without butter. Tampon is left on the surface of the longitudinal and transverse eight along the surface, then polished across. In all cases the applied pad lasy polishes should closely adhere to each other and be sure to overlap the edge of the brush before. After the third polishing should now have a stable mirror gloss and the surface itself to be completely smooth. Fourth polishing is necessary only to remove the frosted areas on the surface. Preliminary product is dried for 8-10 days, and then proceed to polishing. Mirror gloss polished surface without any defects suggests that the work is finished and can proceed without exposure to drying. Typically, after polishing the surface traces of oil products remain in the form of a blue plaque, which must be removed. This is done using a special drying (vypolirovki). To perform the drying often use 96% alcohol, but they need to work with skill, otherwise it forms a "burnout" (dull spots). Such a marriage correct re-polishing. It is better to use less active compounds, such as a mixture of varnish and brackish water (30 g cafeteria soda to 1 liter). For preparation of taking equal parts of salt water and lacquers, for example, 100 g. The composition is heated over low heat until the subsidence of shellac. The pooled liquid is drained, filtered and used instead of alcohol. A fresh swab lightly moistened with this solution and fast, with a slight pressure in a circular or wavy motion without holding a tampon in one place. |
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